The designer Carlota Barrera presented her first collection for men with the title “Der Matador und der Fischer”, in the framework of the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid Spring-Summer 2019.
“Der Matador und der Fischer” is a love story inspired by the confrontation of man against the beast. The nature, dead. Stains, spots that lead to blood, scale and coral, flower petals, dirt.
A sober and poetic parade held in a private apartment, outside the fairgrounds, but also the sumptuous locations of some of his colleagues by trade. However, the closeness and relative modesty of her proposal allowed focusing on clothes, which revolved around the title of the collection, Der Matador und der Fischer, questioning which of the two embodies each role: on the one hand, through the Spanish tradition of bullfighting, and on the other with the trade of fishermen who fight against storms and sea beasts.
Femininity with masculinity On the catwalk there was a very clear reflection about masculinity and virility. There were references to the uniform and the professional clothing, but also a certain eroticism in the way of adjusting clothes and fabrics to the body, flirting with the nude and emphasizing the anatomy. “What interests me most is the masculine figure itself, to be able to show with my collections the sensuality that I see in the male body, to be able to play with its volumes and forms, without losing the link with the figure of the gentleman”, explained the designer after the parade.
A dialogue between the purpose of beauty in the matador costume with its marked silhouette in contraposition to the practicality of fishermen’s attire. A dialogue between the delicacy of classical dance and the movements of bullfighters. The concept of masculinity and beauty is exalted with a certain erotic component, and both worlds merge in the detailed embroidery, representing flowers, corals and seaweed. It’s a love story between the matador and the fisherman, and also between the old tailoring and the new techniques of design and making.
A combination of femininity and strength that is evident in delicate body garments cinched to the body, and bullfighter’s jackets with structured shoulders.
The beauty of the suit of lights, with its marked silhouette, is combined with the functionality of the clothing of the fishermen. The concept of masculinity and beauty is exalted, with a certain erotic component, which is evident in the care taken with flowers, corals and aquatic plants. It is a story of love, both between the fisherman and the bullfighter, and between the old tailoring and the new ways of doing things.
Carlota Barrera’s love for craftsmanship it’’s proven with the use of different manual techniques in the collection. It’s a way of stating the important role of these crafts in the Spanish tradition, nowadays in danger of disappearing. Appling embroidery, natural fibers and leather work in this collection, have updated these traditions with a contemporary vision. Artisans such as Steve Mono, with shoes made of Ubrique leather, Javier Sánchez Medina, with natural fibers, and Anónima by CM, with hand embroidery, have contributed to this collection.
The colors of the soil and the sea impregnate a collection of 20 looks that combine beauty, strength, craftsmanship and avant-garde.
With this collection, Carlota Barrera, intends to establish her own brand focused on a male audience interested in contemporary design and art.